Arriving in the early morning, we walked along the Foinikoudes promenade in the Laiki Geitonia (the traditional pedestrian quarter).
People were already renting their lounges and umbrellas and settling in for a day in the sun, sand, and waters of the Mediterranean. Tempting as it was to join them, having only five full days to see the island, we decided to devote our day to seeing as much of Larnaka as time and energy allowed.
Armed with our city map, we began our tour with Agios Lazarus Church in St. Lazarus Square. Built in the 9th century and restored in the 17th, it is one of the most remarkble examples of Byzantine architecture in Cyprus.
St. Lazarus is said to have come to Cyprus after being resurrected by Jesus, became a bishop and lived here for 30 years. His tomb can be seen under the sanctuary. We visited many of the main sites over the rest of our time in Larnaka, too many to include here.
The next day we joined a tour which took us to the eastern and northern sections of Cyprus which was invaded by the Turks in 1974 and which occupies 37 per cent of the island. We drove through the part of Famagusta (Ammochostos) called "the Ghost Town" where Greek homes were left empty when they were forced to flee south during the invasion. These homes have remained unoccupied with the Turks using them as a negotiating card. There are 200,000 Greeks living in refugee camps in the Greek section of Cyprus waiting to return to their homes in the north.
We were given free time to explore the Venetian Walls in the old part of town and
wander through the centre of town and explore the ruins of the Venetian Royal Palace. Here, the former St. Nicholos church has been the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque since 1298 with both the exterior and interior retaining its Christian achitecture.
We drove through the main potato-producing area on the island known as Kokkinochoria, meaning "Red Soil villages" thanks to the fertile red earth in which they are grown. Felt some nostalgia for P.E.I. back home!
The next day we joined a tour which took us to the eastern and northern sections of Cyprus which was invaded by the Turks in 1974 and which occupies 37 per cent of the island. We drove through the part of Famagusta (Ammochostos) called "the Ghost Town" where Greek homes were left empty when they were forced to flee south during the invasion. These homes have remained unoccupied with the Turks using them as a negotiating card. There are 200,000 Greeks living in refugee camps in the Greek section of Cyprus waiting to return to their homes in the north.
We were given free time to explore the Venetian Walls in the old part of town and
wander through the centre of town and explore the ruins of the Venetian Royal Palace. Here, the former St. Nicholos church has been the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque since 1298 with both the exterior and interior retaining its Christian achitecture.
We drove through the main potato-producing area on the island known as Kokkinochoria, meaning "Red Soil villages" thanks to the fertile red earth in which they are grown. Felt some nostalgia for P.E.I. back home!
At Bellapais we stopped to explore Bellapais Abbey, built in the 12th century AD by the French King Hugh III, a fine example of gothic architecture.
We stopped in the city of Kerynia with its more than 3000 years of Greek history, had lunch and wandered through town
to the picturesque harbour and the Castle of Kerynia. Time and space do not allow the inclusion of more views of this beautiful city.
The next day we took our second tour which took us first to Nicosia (Lefkosia), the capital of Cyprus since the late Byzantine period (11th century). The history of this city dates back to the Bronze age.
We walked into the old city where we visited the Panagia Phaneromeni Church, wandered through the shopping district which headed for the Turkish occupied section of the city.
As you leave the Greek side of the city, there is a section under UN control (indicated by the coloured banners); the cones mark the entrance into the Turkish section. Passage into this part of Nicosia has been allowed only since January of this year. We walked into the Turkish section--no one indicated at that time that we needed passes--only to discover on our way out that we should have obtained them. After looking at our passports, the soldier on duty fortunately allowed us back into the Greek section to continue our tour!
Our next stop was the picturesque village of Kakopetria, a well-preserved village dating back to the 14th century.
We drove through the beautiful Troodos mountains where we stopped for lunch in the Troodos centre and continued on to the village of Omodos, dating back to the 4th century, and built around one of the oldest monasteries in Cyprus, the Holy Cross.
Here we were given an explanation by our guide at the Wine Press in the village as Omodos is known as one of the best wine producing areas of the island. Free wine tasting was available at the Gerolemo, Olympus, and Marion wineries.
The next morning, we rented our little Demio Mazda, our first experience with a right-hand drive car. We were forever turning on our windshield wipers with the lever on the left of the steering wheel when we wanted to change lanes. When we finally mastered using the turn signal lever on the right, the challenge was remembering that it's down for a right turn and up for a left! Undoing years of conditioning wasn't easy!!
The 2-hour drive to Pafos on a beautiful 4-lane highway went smoothly; however, trying to find the entrance to Kato Pafos, the Archaeological Park, proved somewhat challenging. But we made it! Above are the ruins of the House of Theseus, one of the three houses dating from the 2nd to the 5th centuries AD accidentally discovered by a farmer in 1962.
Here in the House of Dionysos is an example of the many mosaic floors for which the three houses (the third being Aion) are famous, and are considered masterpieces of mosaic art. Some of the mosaics in this house depict the god of wine.
St. Paul's Pillar, according to legend, is where the Apostle was flogged before converting the then Roman governor Sergius Paulus to Christianity. It is located in the ruins of the Chrysopolitissa/AG Kyriaki Church which was built in the 13th century over the ruins of the largest Early Byzantine basilica on the island.
The Tombs of the Kings are one of the major archaeological attractions of Pafos. These monumental underground tombs carved out of solid rock date back to the 3rd century BC and some like these are decorated with Doric pillars. As they were used by high-ranking officials, it was the magnificence of the tombs that gave the area its grand name.
On the return to Larnaka, we followed Aphrodite's Cultural Route, stopping at breath-takingly beautiful Petra tou Romiou, Aphrodite's birthplace.
The last stop of the day was at Kourion, an important city-kingdom in antiquity. This magnificent Greco-Roman theatre was built in the 2nd century BC. The House of Eustolios which consists of a complex of baths and rooms with beautiful 5th century AD mosaics, and the ruins of the Roman Agora are nearby.
On our last day, we visited the Hala Sultan Tekkesi Mosque located just outside Larnaka on the Salt Lake. It was built in 648 AD on the spot where Umm Haram, related to Mohammed, fell off her mule and died. The construction of the mosque was immediately ordered on the spot. It is now one of the most important holy places of worship for Muslims, ranked immediately after Mecca and Medina (Saudi Arabia), and Al Aksa (Jerusalem).
The Angeloktisti Church in Kiti Village is an 11th century Byzantine church erected over the ruins of an early Christian basilica. Unfortunately taking photos of the rare 6th century mosaic of Virgin and Child between the 2 archangels Michael and Gabriel--which equals the mosaics of Ravenna, Italy--was not allowed inside the church.
The Choirokoitia Neolithic Settlement is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Five characteristic cylindrical-shaped dwellings have been reconstructed using the same construction methods and materials used in Neolithic times.
Remains of all phases of the Neolithic age are evident in the settlement, providing insight into living conditions in the region during prehistoric times.
The return to Larnaka was made more interesting by the beautiful oleander and bougainvillea planted along the highway.